Chilli (Pepper) Cultivation Guide: Nursery to Harvest

Raise a strong transplant

Chilli is transplanted, not usually direct-sown. Raise seedlings in a protected nursery or pro-tray with sterile media; treat seed against damping-off. Harden the seedlings and transplant healthy 30–40 day plants in the evening, then irrigate. A clean, vigorous transplant shrugs off early stress far better than a leggy one.

Spacing, staking and mulch

• Plant at the recommended spacing (commonly ~60 × 45 cm; closer for chilli-only, wider for hybrids) for airflow that reduces disease.
• Stake or trellis heavy-bearing hybrids so laden branches do not snap or touch the soil.
• Plastic or straw mulch conserves moisture, suppresses weeds and keeps fruit clean.

The big threat: thrips, mites and leaf curl

Most chilli failures trace to sucking pests:

• Thrips cause upward leaf curling and silvery scarring; mites cause downward curling and a leathery look. Together they produce "murda"/leaf-curl complex, often with virus.
• Scout leaf undersides twice a week. Use blue/yellow sticky traps to monitor.
• Encourage predators; use neem and rotate selective miticides/insecticides by mode of action — resistance builds fast if you repeat one product.
• Remove and destroy severely virus-infected plants to cut spread.

Water, nutrition and harvest

Drip with fertigation is ideal — chillies need steady moisture but hate waterlogging, and flower drop follows both drought and water stress. Feed balanced NPK with extra potash during fruiting. Pick green chillies for vegetable markets at full size but before colour, or leave them to turn red for dry-chilli/powder markets, which fetch a different (often higher) price. Regular picking every 7–10 days keeps the plant flowering.